What to know
Jozankei Onsen (定山渓温泉, Jōzankei Onsen) lies within Shikotsu-Toya National Park, nestled between the steep cliffs of the Toyohira River. Just an hour from central Sapporo, it's a popular side trip from the city. Consequently, Jozankei is more developed than smaller Hokkaido onsen towns.
The hot spring waters were discovered in 1866, and today the town boasts dozens of ryokan, restaurants, and shops catering to onsen visitors. Many ryokan allow day visitors to use their baths for a fee, typically 500 to 2000 yen. Free foot baths are also scattered around town.
Beyond being an onsen destination, Jozankei is famous for autumn colors when the valley and side valleys burst into brilliant yellows and reds. The best time to see the leaves is usually around mid-October.
Iwato Kannondo is a unique temple in central Jozankei, with most of it inside a cave. Built for road workers killed during tunnel construction, the cave temple stretches 120 meters and houses 33 statues of Kannon, the Buddhist deity of compassion, placed at intervals along the way.
From Sapporo Station Bus Terminal, take Jotetsu Bus number 7 or 8 bound for Jozankei Onsen. Buses run about once an hour, take 75 minutes, and cost 1000 yen one way.
Alternatively, catch Jotetsu Bus number 12 from Makomanai Station, the terminal of Sapporo's Namboku Subway Line. From Makomanai Station, the one-way trip to Jozankei Onsen takes 50 minutes and costs 750 yen. Buses run every 30-60 minutes.