Bessho Onsen

What to know

Bessho Onsen (別所温泉) is a small hot spring town just outside central Ueda City in Nagano Prefecture. During the Kamakura Period (1192–1333), it served as the headquarters of the governor of the Shinshu Region (today's Nagano Prefecture), who built temples and brought Kamakura culture to this mountain town. This made Bessho Onsen a prosperous center of education and religion, earning it the nickname "Kamakura of Shinshu."

Bessho Onsen is the oldest recorded hot spring in the region. Its sulfurous waters have long been valued for their healing properties and are said to have healed the arrow wounds of warriors who bathed in them. Three small traditional public bathhouses dot the town, offering visitors a chance to experience a neighborhood hot spring bath. For larger baths and more amenities, head to the Aisome no Yu public bathhouse at the town's entrance.

Bessho Onsen is compact and easy to explore on foot. Its temples sit on wooded slopes around the town, connected to the center by narrow streets and lanes lined with small shops, restaurants, and ryokan. All attractions are within a ten- to fifteen-minute walk from Bessho Onsen Station.

Take the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Ueda Station (95 minutes, about 6500 yen, 1–3 trains per hour), one stop before Nagano, then transfer to the Ueda Railway to Bessho Onsen (30 minutes, 590 yen, departures every 30 minutes), the terminal station. The Japan Rail Pass is valid between Tokyo and Ueda but not on the Ueda Railway.

Take the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Nagano Station to Ueda Station (15 minutes, 1500 yen for an unreserved seat, two departures per hour), then transfer to the Ueda Railway to Bessho Onsen (30 minutes, 590 yen, departures every 30 minutes). The Japan Rail Pass is valid between Nagano and Ueda but not on the Ueda Railway.

Alternatively, take the Shinano Railway between Nagano and Ueda (45 minutes, 780 yen, two to three departures per hour) and transfer to the Ueda Railway to Bessho Onsen. The Japan Rail Pass is not valid on either the Shinano Railway or the Ueda Railway.