Tsumago

What to know

Tsumago (妻籠) was a post town on the Nakasendo route connecting Kyoto and Edo. Today it is renowned as one of Japan's best-preserved post towns. The town and its residents go to great lengths to recreate the atmosphere of the Edo Period. Cars are banned from the main street during the day, and phone lines and power cables are hidden, allowing visitors to feel as though they have stepped back in time.

Tsumago also recreates the post town ambiance by maintaining its Honjin and Wakihonjin. In post towns, the Honjin was the primary inn for traveling government officials. When more lodging was needed, the Wakihonjin accommodated travelers of slightly lower status. Tsumago also preserves the office where laborers and horses were rented to assist with travel.

Many minshuku and ryokan are located in the town, and staying overnight greatly enhances the illusion of having left the modern era. If time allows, it is highly recommended to hike a preserved section of the former Nakasendo from Tsumago to Magome. The trail is well maintained and clearly marked in both Japanese and English.

Tsumago is connected by bus to JR Nagiso Station, the nearest train station. The one-way ride takes about seven minutes and costs 300 yen (see timetable). Alternatively, a taxi ride costs about 2000 yen. You can also walk from Nagiso Station to Tsumago in about an hour along a marked walking trail.

With a few exceptions, most limited express trains between Nagoya and Nagano do not stop at Nagiso Station. Instead, transfer to a local train at Nakatsugawa or Kiso-Fukushima Station.

Nearby Magome can be reached from Tsumago by infrequent direct buses (see timetable) or by following the Magome-Tsumago Hiking Trail.