Myoshinji Temple

What to know

Myoshinji (妙心寺, Myōshinji) is a sprawling temple complex in northwestern Kyoto, housing around 50 subtemples alongside its main halls. While only a few halls are open to the public, visitors can freely stroll the pathways. In many ways, the complex resembles Daitokuji Temple.

As the head temple of the Myoshinji school within the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, it oversees over 3,000 affiliated temples and claims to be the largest Zen temple complex. Founded in 1337, it began when an abdicated emperor converted an imperial villa into a Zen temple.

The main buildings cluster near the southern gate close to Hanazono Station. Lined up in succession are the Sanmon Gate, Butsuden Hall, Hatto Hall, and Ohojo building. The Sanmon Gate and Butsuden Hall are designated Important Cultural Properties but can only be viewed from outside.

The Hatto Hall is open for a fee and features a giant dragon painted on its ceiling, which appears to change depending on the viewing angle. It also houses one of Japan's oldest temple bells, dating back to the 7th century.

Among Myoshinji's many subtemples, three are open year-round, and a few others open occasionally. Some closed temples leave their front gates ajar, offering glimpses of inner gardens. Walking the paths connecting the buildings is a pleasant way to soak in the temple atmosphere. Though now separate, nearby Ryoanji was once one of Myoshinji's subtemples.

Taizoin Temple is the most famous subtemple on the main grounds. Its beautiful pond garden, built in the mid-1960s, is considered one of the finest Showa Period (1926-1989) gardens. The rock garden was designed in the 1400s by renowned painter Kano Motonobu. The temple also holds a prized 15th-century painting illustrating a Buddhist parable of a man trying to catch a fish with a gourd.