Shogunzuka Mound

What to know

Shogunzuka Mound (将軍塚, Shōgunzuka) sits on Kyoto's eastern mountains, the very spot where Emperor Kanmu is said to have first surveyed the valley where he later built the ancient capital. True to this tradition, Shogunzuka is now famous for its observation decks offering stunning city views. The site belongs to Shorenin Temple, whose main buildings stand at the mountain's base.

On the west side of the grounds is the older West Observation Deck, perched about ten meters above ground on a somewhat unattractive structure. It provides views toward central Kyoto and as far as Osaka on clear days, but surrounding trees block most popular tourist sights around the mountain's base.

The best views are from the more elegant North Observation Deck, where visitors can see northern Kyoto all the way to Mount Hieizan. The spacious wooden deck seems to float above the trees, offering mostly unobstructed sightlines from nearly 220 meters above the city. Look closely and you can spot landmarks like the Imperial Palace, Heian Shrine, and Nanzenji below.

The actual Shogunzuka Mound is said to contain a 2.5-meter-tall clay statue of a general in full battle armor, with a sword and an iron bow and arrow. This statue serves as a guardian talisman for the city; legend says the mound rumbles when the city is in danger.

Next to the mound stands Seiryuden temple hall, which houses a painting of the fearsome Buddhist deity Fudo Myoo, depicted holding a sword and rope, surrounded by flames. The painting is an important object of worship for Shorenin Temple and a national treasure. A reproduction is on display inside the hall.

The grounds also feature a beautiful Japanese landscape garden with maple and cherry trees that display brilliant reds, yellows, and oranges in autumn, and pink blossoms in spring. The garden is known for seasonal illuminations held in the evenings from late October to early December and from late March to early May. During these times, visitors can also enjoy the night view of Kyoto from the observation decks. The garden next to the Shogunzuka Mound in Autumn. Shogunzuka Mound is located at the top of Mount Higashiyama and not served by public transportation.