Kurokawa Onsen

What to know

Kurokawa Onsen (黒川温泉) is one of Japan's most charming hot spring towns, nestled in central Kyushu about 20 kilometers north of Mount Aso. Thanks to coordinated efforts to preserve a traditional atmosphere, the town has avoided the concrete hotels, neon signs, and loud colors common in many other Japanese resort towns.

Instead, Kurokawa's streetscape features natural colors and materials: wooden buildings, earthen walls, stone steps, and a river flowing through. The compact town center sits in a forested valley and is easy to explore on foot, though a few ryokan are located a bit farther out.

The lanes are lined with ryokan, public bathhouses, charming shops, cafes, a small shrine, and bridges that lead directly to ryokan entrances. Strolling in yukata and geta sandals provided by your ryokan is especially enjoyable. An information center in the town center offers maps and other resources.

Kurokawa is famous not only for its picturesque town but also for the outstanding outdoor baths (rotenburo) of its ryokan. Some are set right beside a rushing river, while others impress with their large size. The larger baths with good views tend to be a bit outside the center, while more central ryokan offer smaller, historic baths once enjoyed by the feudal lords of nearby Kumamoto Castle.

Overnight guests can enjoy their own ryokan's baths as often as they like, but both visitors and day-trippers can explore other baths during the day through a "Rotemburo Meguri" (outdoor bath tour).

A wooden pass (tegata) is sold for 1500 yen, granting admission to three different ryokan baths of your choice (valid for up to six months). It is available at the information center and over twenty participating ryokan. Alternatively, individual baths cost around 600 yen each. Check at the information center for any closures on the day of your visit.