Ohara

What to know

Ohara (大原, Ōhara) is a rural town nestled in the mountains of northern Kyoto, about one hour from Kyoto Station, yet still within the city limits. It is best known for Sanzenin Temple and is especially popular in mid-November during the autumn leaf season, which typically occurs about one week earlier than in central Kyoto.

Sanzenin Temple is located partway up the forested mountains in the east of Ohara. This large temple features a variety of buildings and gardens and was established in the early Heian Period (794–1185) by the great monk Saicho, founder of the Tendai sect of Japanese Buddhism. The path from the town to the temple is lined with numerous small shops. One local specialty is aisu kyuri—cucumbers pickled in seaweed-flavored ice water and served on a stick.

The temples surrounding Sanzenin also belong to the Tendai sect. They are quite small and typically have only a couple of buildings or a garden. If you follow the walking trail behind the temples further into the forested mountain, you will eventually reach Otonashi Waterfall.

There are also a few attractions on the hillside on the opposite side of the valley, although there is generally less to see. Jakkoin Temple, another Tendai sect temple, is the area's main attraction. It has a long history, but unfortunately had to be rebuilt in the early 2000s after an arsonist burned down the main building. The area has a few shops, but not as many as around Sanzenin.

In 2004, drilling in Ohara allowed the town's ryokan (Japanese inns) to access hot spring water from over a kilometer deep. There are two ryokan near Jakkoin and one near Sanzenin where visitors can stay overnight, enjoying hot spring baths after a day of sightseeing. For travelers with less time, the baths are also open to day trippers with combined lunch and bath sets.

From Kyoto Station, the fastest way to reach Ohara is to take the Karasuma Subway Line to its terminal station Kokusaikaikan (20 minutes, 290 yen) and then Kyoto Bus number 19 to Ohara (20 minutes, 400 yen, every 20 minutes). Alternatively, Kyoto Bus number 17 provides a direct connection from Kyoto Station to Ohara (60 minutes, 630 yen, every 30 minutes) via Shijo-Kawaramachi (45 minutes, 590 yen).