Haguro-san

What to know

Haguro-san (羽黒山) is the most accessible of the three Dewa Sanzan mountains. Its summit houses Haguro-san Shrine, the only one of the three Dewa Sanzan shrines open year-round. Symbolizing birth, Haguro-san is typically the first shrine visited.

Haguro-san is easy to reach thanks to a toll road that allows car or bus access. However, the traditional and recommended way to approach the shrine is via a walking trail that climbs 2,446 stone steps through a cedar forest from the mountain base. Thirty-three figures carved into the steps are said to bring prosperity to anyone who finds them all.

Several attractions line the walking trail up Haguro-san. Near the trailhead, the Ideha Museum offers information on Shugendo (a folk religion centered on mountain worship), yamabushi (Shugendo practitioners), and the Dewa Sanzan. Many exhibits have English explanations, making it a great place to learn about the area's history and religious significance.

About ten minutes up the trail, a five-storied pagoda stands surrounded by cedars. According to a classical text, this National Treasure was first built in 937. Further along, roughly halfway up the stone steps, a teahouse offers tired hikers rest, water, tea, snacks, souvenirs, and even a free hiking certificate.

Just before the summit, a building called Saikan, connected to Haguro-san's shrine, offers temple lodging (shukubo). A stay includes simple accommodation in a tatami room, dinner and breakfast in the style of Buddhist vegetarian cuisine (shojin ryori), and the chance to watch the shrine's early morning ceremony. Advance booking is required.

Haguro-san's main shrine houses the deities from all three Dewa Sanzan shrines, making it the most important of the three. The main building, Sanjin Gosaiden, boasts Japan's thickest thatched roof, over two meters thick. Also at the summit is a historical museum with information on the shrines in Japanese, along with art and artifacts.