Eiheiji Temple

What to know

Eiheiji (永平寺) is a vast temple complex and active monastery nestled on a cedar-covered hillside in the mountains just outside Fukui City. Founded in 1244 by Dogen, the scholar who brought Soto Zen from China to Japan in 1228, Eiheiji serves as one of the two head temples of the Soto Sect of Zen Buddhism (the other was formerly Sojiji Temple on the Noto Peninsula before its head functions moved to Yokohama).

The sprawling complex comprises over 70 buildings connected by covered walkways that shield visitors from the heavy snowfall typical from December to March. In warmer months, lush greenery surrounds the grounds, which are especially stunning from late October to early November when autumn colors peak.

Visitors enter through the reception hall (Kichijokaku), a modern temple building for laypeople featuring its own kitchen, bath, sleeping quarters, study rooms, and a large meditation hall with a beautifully decorated coffered ceiling. A short orientation in Japanese is given before guests explore the grounds independently. Good foreign-language pamphlets describing the various buildings are available.

Covered walkways lead from the reception hall to historically significant structures, including the Sanmon Gate (rebuilt in 1749, the oldest standing building on site), the Buddha Hall (Butsuden) at the complex's center housing statues of the past, present, and future Buddha, the spacious main lecture hall (Hatto) at the top of the slope, and the founder's hall (Joyoden) containing Dogen's ashes and images of successive head monks.

A few other important buildings can only be viewed from outside: the monks' quarters (Sodo) where they eat, sleep, and meditate; the kitchen (Daikuin) where meals are prepared; and the baths and toilets (Yokushitsu and Tosu), as bathing is a key cleansing ritual in Soto Zen. A beautiful belfry below the Sanmon Gate holds a giant bronze bell rung four times daily.

Hourly direct buses run between Fukui Station and Eiheiji (30 minutes, 750 yen one way). Alternatively, the Echizen Railway connects Fukui Station to Eiheiji-guchi Station (25 minutes, 490 yen one way) with two departures per hour, from where a bus takes you to Eiheiji (15 minutes, 430 yen).