Kitain Temple

What to know

Kawagoe's Kitain (喜多院) is the head temple of the Tendai sect in the Kanto region. Among its halls are the only surviving palace buildings from the former Edo Castle. Originally part of a three-temple complex built in 830, Kitain flourished and became the main temple at the turn of the 17th century under the leadership of Tenkai, an extraordinary figure who developed close friendships with the first three shoguns of the Edo period.

In 1638, a fire destroyed most of Kitain. To help rebuild it, the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu, ordered several palace buildings to be moved from Edo Castle to Kawagoe. These are now the only surviving buildings of Edo Castle, as Tokyo suffered severe damage during the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and World War II. One room, decorated with a floral ceiling and a set of a general's armor, is believed to be where Iemitsu was born.

Another highlight of a visit to Kitain is the Gohyaku Rakan statues—540 stone statues of Buddha's disciples, each with its own facial expression. It is fascinating to wander among the statues, which offer great photo opportunities. They are located in a small separate courtyard on the temple grounds.

After the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, passed away in Sunpu (present-day Shizuoka), his remains were transported to Nikko. During the journey, a memorial service was held by Tenkai at Kitain, which led to the construction of the Semba Toshogu Shrine within its premises. Accordingly, the three most important Toshogu shrines in Japan are those in Shizuoka, Kawagoe, and Nikko, respectively.

To complete your tour of the Kitain area, visit Nakain ("Middle Temple"), one of the original three temples. It exists as a separate institution today and can be reached in a five-minute walk. Not much remains of the third temple, Minamiin ("South Temple").

Kitain Temple is a 15-minute walk from Hon-Kawagoe Station or the Warehouse District.