Hongu Taisha

What to know

Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社) is one of the three great shrines of the Kumano region. In addition to its own deity, it enshrines the gods of the other two Kumano shrines—Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha—as well as the Sun Goddess Amaterasu. It serves as the head shrine for over 3,000 Kumano shrines across Japan.

The first written record of Hongu Taisha dates to the 9th century, but the shrine was likely established much earlier. After floods in 1889, it was moved from its original location at Oyu no Hara to its current site, which is one kilometer away and less flood-prone. In front of Oyu no Hara stands the world's largest torii gate, towering 33 meters high and making visitors feel tiny as they pass beneath.

Hongu Taisha lies at the heart of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route network. For those short on time but eager to experience a pilgrimage trail, the final section of the Nakahechi route from Hosshinmon Oji to Hongu is a pleasant two-hour, seven-kilometer walk. Hosshinmon Oji is accessible by bus.

Three hot springs are located near Hongu: Yunomine, Kawayu, and Wataze. The first two are small onsen towns, while Wataze Onsen consists of just a single hotel complex, Watarase Onsen, known for having the largest outdoor bath in western Japan. The bath is open to non-guests as well.

Kawayu Onsen is a unique hot spring town along a river. Visitors dig a hole in the gravel riverbank, allowing hot spring water to flow in. They then mix in cool river water to reach their preferred temperature. In winter, a giant public bath called Sennin Bath is dug in the same way and is free for everyone.

Yunomine Onsen has such a long history that one of its baths, Tsuboyu, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Pilgrims once performed purification rituals in the hot spring water as part of their religious journey. Tsuboyu is one of two public bathhouses in Yunomine; the other is the larger Yunomine Public Bathhouse nearby.