Aoi Matsuri

What to know

Taking place every year on May 15, the Aoi Matsuri (Hollyhock Festival) is one of Kyoto's three most celebrated festivals, alongside the Gion Matsuri and Jidai Matsuri. The highlight is a grand procession of over 500 people dressed in the aristocratic fashion of the Heian Period (794–1185), walking from the Imperial Palace to the Kamo Shrines. The name comes from the hollyhock leaves worn by participants.

The Aoi Matsuri dates back to the 7th century, predating Kyoto's role as the capital in 794. Its exact origins are unclear, but it likely began after natural disasters were attributed to the deities of the Kamo Shrines. The emperor made offerings, the calamities ceased, and a tradition was born. The festival's official name, Kamo Matsuri, reflects its connection to these shrines.

During the Heian Period, the festival became so prominent that the word 'festival' itself was synonymous with Aoi Matsuri. Today's massive procession reflects its historical importance: mounted horsemen, giant floral arrangements, elaborately decorated ox-drawn carts, and a retinue of women in kimono accompanying the year's Saio.

Traditionally, the Saio was a young imperial princess who served as high priestess of the Kamo Shrines and performed rituals. Today, an unmarried woman from Kyoto is chosen annually to play this role. She undergoes purification ceremonies before the festival and rides in a palanquin during the parade.

The parade starts at 10:30 from the Imperial Palace's southern gate, crossing the river in front of Shimogamo Shrine around 11:15. Ceremonies at the shrine last about two hours before the procession heads to Kamigamo Shrine, arriving around 15:30. Watching the entire parade pass takes roughly one hour.

Paid seating is available at the Imperial Palace and both Kamo Shrines. Without reserved seats, arrive early for a good view at these spots. Crowds are thinner along the rest of the route, but watching on a regular city street lacks the same atmosphere. In the days before the festival, related events like horse races and the Saio's purification are held at the shrines.